Adventure of a Lifetime!: June Bloom

I am finally settled into the new year and able to look back and continue to do some blogging of the events of 2015. As I mentioned last time, my new plan is to focus on one month at a time. This seems like an arduous task, as so much happens every week, perhaps every day, that is noteworthy to me, while still bring true to my vision of a reflective memoire that enters into the nuances of our experience here. So I venture into the VERY busy and eventful month of June 2015, and bring you along!

The month began with an invitation to attend an event sponsored by Dal Riada Catholic family center. They held a sport day for families trying to live their Catholic faith and be in community with one another. It was held on the grounds of a beautiful local international girls school and was well attended. Well, the numbers may have been a bit skewed by the size of most of the traditional Irish Catholic families! We met some lovely people (many who homeschool like us) and enjoyed the competition on the magnificent green lawn. I love the lack of pretentiousness. These people are so down to earth and genuine. One lady, Clodagh, whom I particularly have enjoyed and gotten to know since, raced against me and some other women, and she was really dishing it out at the starting line. She ended up falling down and rolling down a hill in her dress near the finish line, and just rolled with laughter on the ground! Clodagh knows a lot about genealogy and is committed to retaining Irish culture. She is fluent in the Irish language, speaking it to her children at home, and was able to pick out which counties my family line came from just based on their surnames.

Making friends while climbing trees

On yer marks!

Father handing out the awards.

It struck me that day that priests here can be quite involved in every day life. These are lovely Regnum Christi priests that attended our family day, and they at always so present to the Catholic community. We have attended many of their functions, including a homeschooling parents night. There were probably 40 people there sharing their stories and experiences with homeschooling, and we celebrated Mass and had tea and cakes. What a treasure their family center, Dal Riada, is!

Thomas and I celebrated our 19^th anniversary across the street at the Fitzpatrick Castle Hotel. This is the hotel we stayed in when we were house shopping, not knowing that the house we would choose was right under our nose! It was so handy because we didn’t even need a sitter. We had a lovely meal and drinks, while the kids enjoyed a movie across the street at our house. The Fitzpatrick is known around these parts as Killiney Castle. If you have no interest in history, feel free to skip the next paragraph outlining the history of the Fitpatrick Castle Hotel (Killiney Castle):

The original house, Mount Mapas was built in 1740 by Col. John Mapas, although records show that a building or buildings stood here at a much earlier date. The 150 acres around it (including the land we live on, which was part of the estate) was later converted the barren stoney soil to meadow and pasture and cut a road around the hill. The name Robert Warren is very much associated with the Castle and it was he who in 1840 enlarged the house and called it Killiney Castle. He also restored and added monuments on Killiney Hill, the captivating focus of the area, repairing the obelisk originally erected by Col. Mapas as a famine works project in the 18th Century (still there today and seen from all around), and donated land and most of the money for the building of Killiney parish church. The land on the hill - once part of the estate - was purchased from his son, by Queen Victoria's jubilee memorial association and subsequently re-named Victoria Hill - as we still know it today. Its subsequent owners included a Mrs Chippendale Higgan. The trees and shrubs she planted can still be seen today. In the 20th Century, Killiney Castle was used by the Black & Tans, the IRA and the Republicans in the civil war before being burnt by Free State Troops. It was requisitioned by the Government during the 1939-45 period and used as billets for the army. Killiney Castle exchanged hands again with the late Paddy and Eithne Fitzpatrick taking over the helm in the 1970's, transforming it into a first class hotel and re-naming it Fitzpatrick Castle Hotel.

So much history on our doorstep!

Later, with a sitter, we were able to attend Top Hat, the Musical! at the Bord Gaise theatre.

The last day of school is at the end of June here, so we ended our lessons then, as well. We celebrated by enjoying the weekly outdoor barbecue that they have on the lawn of the Fitzpatrick. What a treat on a sunny Friday evening. The sun, by that time, doesn’t go down until 10:30 pm or so, so there is loads of time to enjoy the “long stretch of the evening!” There is some verbiage that any transplant Texas must understand in order to make it through summer here:

In Texas, bbq (never barbecue) is a noun (a type of smoked meat with sauce). A grill is a hot outdoor place where you cook up meat. If you are cooking burgers or other meat that is not technically bbq, then you cook out, and you have your friends over for a cookout.

In Ireland, a barbecue (not bbq) is an event where people gather and eat meat cooked outdoors. A barbecue is also the mechanism on which you cook the meat. A grill is an indoor appliance found in an oven which cooks things from the top on high heat. In Texas, this is called a broiler.

Sam really got into GAA, and his coaches and we were so pleasantly surprised at how he took to it and excelled. Sam also got an earache, so we had the adventure of going to an Irish doctor for the first time. I was surprised I was able to get him right in at the Surgery in Dalkey. Yes, that is what they call a doctor’s office….a surgery. It says so right on the sign. I am picturing amputations and heart transplants, and this ancient doctor just gave Sam some oily ear drops. I have to admit, germaphobic me was a little bit squeamish. The waiting room was the size of my closet in Austin, so everyone was in each others’ faces. The toilet had a COMMUNITY hand towel!! (Oh wait, you don’t know that restrooms are called “toilets”. I have a hard time not picturing just a porcelain throne sitting out in the open when I see or hear that label, but I digress....) We went straight in to the doctor, no initial visit with a nurse. He was a gentle and sweet older gentleman, quite knowledgeable. But his office/examining room (yes, they are one and the same), looked like Louis Pasteur’s dorm room. Bottles all over the counter, lab notes, receipts, used equipment, a briefcase on the floor, empty, dirty coffee cups and a thermos in the sink, some sort of air purifying machine and water pick, collecting dust. A community blanket on the examining table, which had a cloth clover, not a fresh sheet of paper, and toys for the kiddies. He took a look Sam's ears, and then decided he needed his audiology machine, which he informed me was in his car! So while he went outside to get his equipment, I was left in the room with old fashioned files of other patients just sitting there, waiting to be explored, and a cabinet full of bottles of medication (just like Doc Baker on Little House on the Prairie). But instead I took the opportunity to snap some photos:

Toto, we are not in Kansas anymore! It was determined Sam was suffering from impacted earwax, so he sent us home with a sample size bottle of junk to clear out his junk.

There are benefits to the old fashioned ways here. Like the time I went to the Fruit and Veg stand (which takes only cash) and was 40 cents short, so they told me to just bring it some other time. Or at Mugg's coffee shop where I didn’t have ANY cash after finishing my lunch, so they said, “Ah sure look, just bring it by when you are back around.” Or like the little library that we can walk to, that the kids can pick out books from whenever they like.

The lovely little patio on the library named after a local auther, Maeve Binchy

Our library in Austin is a 15 min drive – without traffic (haha – no traffic – in Austin – haha! I am rolling!) and on the way to nowhere else for me. My daily runs might include stops at the post and the bakery before running back up the hill 1 km to our house.

In June there is a buzz in the air around Dalkey, as they approach the famous annual Dalkey Book Festival.

It was begun by David McWilliams, economist turned entertainer, who lives around these parts, and with whom Thomas was on a speaking panel of 2 BEFORE finding out that he single handedly predicted the Irish economic crash. The windows are painted and banners and pennants hung to welcome famous authors from around the world, as well as the thousands of visitors to the area. This year, the book festival occurred the weekend of my birthday. The weather was sunny and gorgeous. The morning of my birthday I got to enjoy seeing Sam play in a GAA match, followed by a fun lunch at Eddie Rocket's 50s Diner. After that, we enjoyed meandering around the festivities, seeing people we had met up to that point, and feeling a part of the community, and then walking on the beach that day.

My kids love me!! :)

The next day, Niall and Mel, Alex and Evie, came down and joined us for the festival. The kids went to hear the author of Danger is Everywhere speak. We rode a mini train around our gorgeous seaside village, and the girls had their faces painted while the boys had balloon animals made. Niall also had the pleasure of wishing Pierce Brosnan (James Bond) a good day.

It has been such a cool thing having the McCabes around as ready-made good friends. We have loads of fun together, and they are so willing and ready to do touristy things with us, and help us on our journey. This was the day I learnt officially just how important tea is. A side note….it It occurred to me at one point that in my American way of life, time and productivity are of utmost importance. So when someone stops by our house to return the book they borrowed or because they were walking the dog by our house, I desire to have them in for a drink or a chat, but I think to myself that they surely are busy and have important things to do, so it would be rude to ask them to stay and then cause them to feel pressure to take time out of their already busy schedule for me, so I usually try to be respectful of their time and just allow them to freedom to do what they need to do and then be on their way when they need to be, without feeling that they must commit to a drink and a chat every time they stop by my house. NOT SO HERE! I learned from our friend, Kevin earlier, and this time from Mel, that you ALWAYS offer to put the kettle on. The story that illustrated my point here was: I was finishing up getting ready. I knew the McCabes were anxious to get down to the festival when they stopped by our house to see if we were ready to go and realized I was not. So Thomas sent them on their way down. About that time I came running downstairs, telling Thomas I was only a couple of minutes away from being ready, so I chased them down the street to ask if they preferred to wait and walk with us, which they did. I THOUGHT about asking if they wanted some tea, but I second guessed myself, thinking that surely they didn’t want to take the time for that. Within minutes, though, Niall asked if Mel have a cuppa because she didn’t have time for any when they left, and she felt bad asking. Lesson learnt. Ever since, no matter who stops by for whatever reason…a neighbor, the postman, a solicitor (not really), I offer a cuppa. And, without fail, the conversation goes like this:

Me: Shall I put the kettle on?

Friend: No, Im okay. Thanks.

Me: Are you sure?

Friend: Well…alllllright. If you insist.

And then they sit down and stay awhile for a chat.

tea or cider? -- Pick your poison.

Later that week, Liam rang. Have I mentioned Liam before? Surely I have. He is the man that came up to me at the newsagent and got in my face, asking, “Do you know anyone who can trim hedges?” I told him I actually did have a number for someone who did garden work, but I didn’t have the number on me, so he asked me to call him when I got home. I did, but he was driving, so he asked me to call back in an hour. What? Who is this guy? Hilarious. Upon ringing him back, I also met his wife, and I exchanged words with the two o' dem. Well, a few weeks went by, and then friendly, bold Liam RANG ME!

Me: Hello?

Liam: Is it Amy? (They say is IT, not is THIS. If you say THIS, they act confused)

M: It is.

L: I am Liam. I wanted to tell you I found someone to trim the hedges.

M: (huh?) Wow. That’s grand, Liam, I have been lying awake at night worried about that so I am so glad you told me! (I laugh)

L: Yeah, I didn’t use the guy you sent me because I found someone else first, but it all got done, so I thought you would like to know. And thank you for that. (HE didn’t even use my guy! Why is he thinking to call me??)

M: Wow Liam, I am relieved to know! Thank you for thinking to ring me! If you are ever back in Dalkey we should have a cuppa tea or something.

L: That’s brilliant, Amy! Im so glad to know ye! See ye soon! Thanks a million, Amy!

M: God bless you, Liam.

L And God bless YOU, Amy! Cheers, Amy! Bye-bye. Bye, bye, bye-bye. Cheers! Bye!

Have I mentioned Elisabeth MacMahon? What a cool lady. She is one of the people I ran into at the festival. She is French, but married to an Irishman, Ross, and has lived here for 20 years. I met her because she advertised for a piano in the window of the newsagent. (Actually, I was taking her number down when Liam walked in.) It was so cool to visit her to see the piano and chat forever about everything. She3 was thrilled to sell her piano which carries with it so may memories, to a family like ours. WE became fast friends. This week we had the piano delivered. What a cool thing. I am so glad we bought that for Lucy, especially.

Also at the festival, Elisabeth introduced us to Dierdre who taught piano lessons. So Lucy ended up taking lessons from her the rest of the summer until she moved to NYC L She is such a sweet, charming lady! WE had the piano delivered BEFORE I paid her, so I came by her house one night about 9 pm to drop off the cash and have a quick visit and, as I did not have a mobile phone at the time, Thomas did get a little bit worked up when I was not home till after 1 am! Elisabeth showed me to her upstairs, 4^th floor, cozy living room loaded with artifacts and stacks of sheet music, which she rummaged through to give me, with the sound of great classical music filling the room. Her husband Ross kept my mind stimulated all evening with chats about history, politics, America, religion, education, you name it while Elisabeth chimed in with her own opinions about things….not always sharing Ross's viewpoints! They are both brilliant people, and a great resource. I thoroughly enjoyed their company and knew that God was taking care of me by bringing Elisabeth into my life. I must mention their house, as well. Situated on a hillside overlooking the Irish Sea (every window as a view….the house goes straight up) as well as the Dart rail line, the house was once a carriage house for Strawberry Hill, the house next door. That home has been occupied by the Steven???????? Of Def Leppard, as well as by the Ryan family, who own Ryan Airlines. Ross always had a dram of living in a house on the sea by a train, so when he found this ehouse decades ago, though in a shambles, who grabbed it. It is built literally into Killiney Hill, and the stairs wind around a big boulder attached to the hill. I mean you can literally touch Killiney Hill fron their stairs. Elisabeth showed me where the horses came in and went out and where the carrigaes were kept. They have raised two daughters in that house with only one bathroom and 4 floors, so they decided it was finally time to remodel the house that Ross began remodeling ages ago. Right now, as I type this, poor things, they are in leased housing until their house is finished Cant wait to see it!

16^th of June is Bloomsday. This is celebration of the author James Joyce, who wrote Ulysses, a classic 265,000 word vignette of an ordinary day in the life of Leopold Bloom and Stephen Dedalus, two men in Dublin on 16 June, 1904. One of the first scenes takes place in a school room in Dalkey and around Dalkey village. James Joyce actually DID teach there himself, and the house where the school room was remains to this day, just down the street with us. The kids and I enjoyed a tour of the spots from the novel in town, and then that night the whole family attended a performance of some scenes from the book and a concert at our local heritage center.

James Joycean walk through Dalkey

St. Begnet's church that Sam eventually hid inside during the play.

The stage was up against a wall of glass looking out over St. Begnets chapel ruins (10^th Century. St. Begnet is our local patron saint) and graveyard (13^th Century). The play was entertaining and well done, but at a certain point in the second act, after an interlude of sugary drinks, Sam got quite antsy. The room was warm, so they had the doors just next to us to the side wide open. All of a sudden I realized Sam had sprung to his feet and ran outside! Those ancient tombstones to explore and and the fresh air were calling his name! He tried to hid in the ruins of the church, but he didn’t understand that, as it was dusk, the lights that light u pthe church and tomstones had come on, so every dingle movement he made cast a HUGE shadow on the ruins that were JUST BEHIND the actors on stage. He ran around, shadows following him, and causing a red glow to rise upon to my face. I didn’t want to make a scene by running out and chasing him around (him thinking I am playing) and calling his name, so I hoped he would just get still and hide, but to no avail. I finally had to do something, so I ran out as I had pictured and firmly demanded he meet me around the back corner of the old chapel, and we sat there and hid for the rest of the performance till we heard the applause. Then we snuck in quickly, grabbed Lucy and Thomas, and snuck out as fast as we could before anyone could comment. Sam was mortified when he heard how obvious and disruptive he had been. He thought he was invisible during his cemetery tour.

Next weekend we found ourselves participating in one of the coolest things we have ever done. As I mentione in my last post, Sam joined GAA (Gaelic Athletic Assoc), which included hurling and Gaelic football. Each year there is a tournament of the best GAA teams in the country called the All Ireland. Well, Sams GAA Cuala club has a mini-All-Ireland. Each team gets a county name and jersey and they have a big tournament and picnic and award ceremony. But one of the COOLEST things is that first they have a parade through town. They shut down the streets, and the kids line up in their matching colors with official banners with their Irish county names with crest, and parade through the streets, with their families too, waving flags, and escorted by mounted cavalry, bagpipes, and traditional lrish drummers and flutes. You really get a sense of just how important and how much a source of pride these GAA clubs are to the local communities and counties of Ireland. GAA goes way back, and we felt a part of history. They marched all the way to the pitch (field) which had a row of all the flags of all the counties represented, and there were games and festivities alongside the tournament.

The parade was led by mounted guards and bagpipes

The teams were divided up into counties, and Sam's team pretended to represent Co. Cavan.

Mini All Ireland Parade through Dalkey

Sam and his mate, Joe.

Sam and some GAA lads, including one of his good friends, Joe (in the middle)

This was the day Thomas and I met Kevein, Joes dad. Joe was Sams favorite friend from GAA, and he is a unique individual! Joe is adopted from Ethiopia, and at the time we met him he had an afro Mohawk, so in a field of pasty white, freckle face Irish kids, this spunky, happy, energetic kid stands out. Sam loved his spirit, so we met his dad and began the process of fcestering that friendship. Little did we know that at the same time we would foster a friendship with Joes whole family. (more on that later.) Also at GAA, Lucy ran around with some girls selling raffle tickets. To top off this warm, sunny, fab day, we heard the best quote ever out of an Irish kid, regarding the goal posts, Look at the size o dem poles! Deir bigger den me mums teeth! (or was it teets? We couldn’t tell! Hahaha!)

After two months of begging and groverling, and reminding, and pressuring, and sending our change of address multiple times, etc. we FINALLY squeezed out debit cards from our impossible bank! I felt like I had been let out of jail now that I could get some money so easily and pay for things with a PIN, which is the main way things are done around here. Money is treated so differently. First of all, you ALWAYS carry cash. You never know who will not accept cards. And I don’t have checks. Second, you ALWAYS carry coins. Parking often accepts coins only, and every time you turn around you are paying to park. Additionally, coins go as high as 2 Euros, with the smallest note being 5 Euro, so if you own someone 33 Euro, you have to pay part of that in coins. There is no other option. I think I may need to have a chiropractor on hand when we move dback to work out all the kinks form carrying around a 50 lbs purse full of coins! Haha – not really. But you never leave home without coins.

Fathers Day is the same day here as in America. We celebrated Thomas by going to Powerscourt Waterfall. What a magical place. (Dad and Sue, it was not the best day when you went). You can drive up really close to the base of the falls, and people picnic and camp right there, all around. IN JUNE. People were actually cooking out and sitting around and relaxing, soaking it all in without ONE DROP of sweat on their brow! It was then that I realized that all those magazine pictures of picnics and camping and outdoor fun in the summer actually DO happen in the summer…just not in Texas where we are all sitting in the air conditioning in an ice bath, fanning ourselves. We climbed the rocks and soaked it all in and hiked a bit before hading over to the infamous Johnny Foxes, the highest pub in Ireland. THIS spot is amazing! Its like the Dixie Chicken or Broken Spoke of Dublin. A cozy and eclectic old pub, covered in interesting articles, full of nooks and crannies, with lists of famous visitors on the walls, and even the ashes of a pub owner in American who dreamed of visiting and neer made it. (hmmm) At the back is a room where they play stomping, raucous trad music, and you feel enveloped in a time warp. From what I hear, the mussles are incredible (but I personally did not try them).

As we wrapped uour school year at the end of school, we headed over to explore Trimm Castle with the McCabes. It was brilliant spending so much time with them in June!

Trimm Castle

A model of the inside

Sam and Alex have no trouble messin together!

Lucy's always in trouble!

Always a ball to kick around with these two!

The next day Thomas left for the Czech Rep and Frankfurt. It is nice that when Thomas travels to mainland Europe it is NOTHING compared to his trips from the USA! Lucy and Sam headed over for a playdate with Joe and his cute little sister, Ruhama. By this point I had also met their mother, Mairead. They live in the house that Mairead grew up in in Killiney, which they added on to. No two houses are the same here, so every time I get to see another persons home it is an adventure and interesting experience! This time what was particularly interesting about their house is that they live down such a narrow road that you can barely squeeze your vehicle in. I made the mistake of driving right up to the house, thinking there surely was a place at the end of the road to turn around, but I was wrong! I had to back up very slowly, narrowly missing the potted plants sitting on her neighbors front door step on one side and a wall on the other. The other interesting thins is that their house is surrounded by donkeys! In fact, as I write this, just the other day I called on Mairead for a quick visit, and while at the door I was startled by a loud yelling sound, which was a massive heehaw of a donkey right next to me that I didn’t notice when I walked up! He nudged me to give him some love. Felt like I had stepped back in time!

I already told you about the troubles in getting a debit card. Well that was NOTHING compared to getting a mobile phone!!!

Here is the story. Skip it if you want. Or don’t, if you want to appreciate how easy things are in USA.

I was told the best place to go is Carphone Warehouse because they serve all mobile companies so they can figure out the best plan for me. The kids and I, not understanding how close Dun Laoghaire is by car, decided it would be best to take the train there after we finished our lessons one day (this was after much studying to figure out where to go and how to get there, etc.) We almost missed the train (at this point we didn’t have a card for the kids so were still purchasing tickets every single time). In my haste I didn’t pay attention to which side of the tracks I was on, so we ended up going the wrong way. Got off at the next stop and turned ourselves around. Then we couldn’t find the place and walked around everywhere in Dun Laoghaire. Finally found it inside a mall, and when we got there, they were pulling down the shade. The website was WRONG about their closing time. (I have since learned to ALWAYS call, as websites are NEVER reliable!)

Next day, tried again. Only this time I decided to drive to a different one. You see, Thomas had fallen in love with a certain cereal that we had not been able to find anywhere but thee Dunnes store by our apartment when we first moved here. Seeing as Fathers Day was that Sunday, I decided I could kill two birds with one stone by buying several boxes of cereal for Thomas for Fathers Day, and in the same shopping center, try out a different Car Phone Warehouse. As usual, we got dreadfully lost due to my sat nav leading me astray. Finally, frazzled, I found it, ,and limped into the store, ready to be educated on all things Irish mobile. And boy did I get educated. I found myself saying, “You see, in America we....” about every second sentence as I tried to wrap my head around how things work here. In the end I realized that the best plan for us included purchasing a phone, and a Samsung phone like I am accustomed to was extremely expensive (like Euro if I recall correctly), so I decided to downgrade to a Sony smart phone. Trouble was that they didn’t have one in stock for my plan. I don’t know....don’t ask me! So I would have to wait.....and wait.....and wait.....for days....and days.....

FINALLY my phone came in and was ready for pick up. THEN FINALLY get to the shop – now probably 10 days later with my Irish ID and bank account info, as requested, to pick up my phone. At which time the lady discovered i needed my PASSPORT. Of course, in true Amy fashion, I was always there at about 4:55 when they were almost closing (Yes, most shops close are ridiculously early times here. Hello? Irish economy?) So I head home and the next day, scan her my passport, and I get a phone call from the lady who informed me that since the day before, the plans had CHANGED, and the price had shot up. She said that reps jsut come in, with no warning, and change plans that day...bam! Irritation set in, which gave rise to creativity. So I ended up finding the old price as an “online for 2 days only” deal directly with the company online to order a SIM car through the phone company, but then purchase the phone at the store. However, when I tried to order the SIM I HAD to give a preivous address, and the only choice they had online was to give previous IRISH address, that had to have been lived in for a year (or something). So after THREE HOURS on hold, I was told they would call me back. Two MORE days and the phone rep called and told me to just put the same address we live in now. Rules? Policies? Ah, sure. Those change moment to moment. The wait a few days for the SIM card to come in the ;mail. So yet ANOTHER trip to the phone company on ANOTHER day and I had my “feckin” phone!!! (pardon the language, but there is no other word!)

And this is just ONE of the MANY MANY examples of the clumsy entrance we had into being initiated into Irish living.

What a wild ride! And somehow all the those cute, charming Irish accents and all that fresh air and green and long, mild summer days gives one the impression that this is FUN!

Speaking of FUN, we watched June pass into July at Killiney Beach on a gorgeous day.